From Cleopatra to Napoleon: A Brief History of Perfume
Perfume was first used by the Egyptians during religious ceremonies as a cleansing ritual either by burning incense or the use of balms and ointments. Incense is a combination of aromatic organic materials that release a fragrant smoke when burned. The smoke is comprised of the materials that burn and bits of the organic scented materials. When burnt, the organic compound condenses into fine droplets and scents the surrounding cooler air.
Not Just a Pretty Scent
Perfumed oils were also used as medicine and skin treatments. During Egypt’s New Kingdom (1580-1085 BC) period, women’s perfume began being used as a cosmetic. Legend has it that Cleopatra conquered the Romans with her perfume and Bathsheba seduced King Solomon with perfume.
Perfumes spread to the Greeks and Romans, probably in part because of Cleopatra. The Romans were extravagant in their use of perfume. At banquets, and even during daily life, flowers and perfumed waters were used abundantly everywhere from atriums, spas and bedrooms. Perfumery was a flourishing business in Rome with spas and beauty shops becoming meeting and greeting places. It has been said that Nero just by himself burned more incenses than Saudi Arabia could produce in an entire year.
The Greeks gave perfume a value nearly equal to that of food. The first perfume factory was thought to have been established in Greece. Guests at banquets went through a ritual of washing their hands in perfume and at the banquet’s end were given a vial of perfume to take home.
This era of abundance and some say decadence began to fail as the Roman empire fell.
During the 12th century usage of perfume was on the rise again. France became the centre of the perfume industry during the 16th and 17th centuries. Perfume was incorporated into gloves, applied on clothing and even furniture.
Perfumed cloths were used to disguise the smells and unpleasant odour of the streets. There was some thought during the Black Plague that some scents such as rosemary and lavender could ward off the disease.
Essentials oils from lavender, rosemary, and bergamot form the basis of eau de cologne. A simple recipe is 1/8 teaspoon of lemon oil, ½ teaspoon of lavender oil, and ¼ teaspoon of bergamot (orange) oil mixed with 4 ounces of high proof vodka. Eau de cologne can also be made by steeping lavender flowers, rosemary springs, lemon peel and orange peel in the vodka.
Napoleon was said to have used 60 bottles of perfume a month, even on the battle field.
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